Modifications are arranged with most recent on top.

Since I sold the Mustang, it was sold again to a fellow named Paul. He has since put a 70mm throttle body and put it on the dyno to see what it would do.

The new dyno #'s are before the throttle body: 530 hp, and 614 lb tq! through an automatic!

I am always surprised at what this car's numbers have been. What a great setup! I'd like to see how much money it takes for other cars to do the same.

Here are some links to some videos of the car:
At the drag strip
Street race
At the dyno

The Mustang drove out of my driveway for the last time being driven by its new owner. It was time to let someone else bring it to the next level, and it was time for me to move on. I'll probably never have another car as streetable and fast again, but there will be another car, one day. Until then, I plan on flying RC helicopters, fishing, figure out how to manage a new baby, and plan on the next step.

What's next? why did I sell it? Well, One thing is for sure, my next car probably won't be a sleeper or a Mustang. I think I'm aiming for something along the lines of a Viper or a Shelby Cobra replica. Preferrably something that appreciates in value the more work you put into it. I have even thought of a somewhat practical car that actually is fast, maybe a Nomad or something. We will see. There is only so much power you can put to the pavement without getting caught or getting killed on the public roads; all bite with no bark is a fun concept, but in practice it is only good if you are into street racing, which I am not. The next one will probably have a ton of bite with the bark to match.

It has been a fun ride. The End

I fixed the brakes and put a new air/oil seperator to handle crankcase ventilation. Next step is to replace an AC hose that I burnt on the header and recoat the turbo system. Car is running good and drives like a stocker around town. I'm running out of time though and have other things taking priority. It may go up for sale soon.

Click here for a picture Click here for some pictures

After I got the tranny reinstalled, I started to hunt for some tires and rims. Ended up picking up some used Centerline Telstar rims off of Ebay. They were advertised as 15x8, but they were only 15x7, the guy who wouldn't live up to his end of the deal goes by Saleen90_347@hotmail.com (be warned), I picked them up for $220. Live and learn. I then picked up a set of used Mickey Thompson ET Streets 27x10.5x15 that had most of their tread left for $200. I swapped back to a .81 AR exhaust housing from the .69. There is no need for such a small housing with the converter I'm running. It still spools around 3200.

I picked up a few gallons of 111 leaded race gas and pulled my O2 sensors (all the local place had was leaded) and went racing. I ran a few shakedown runs to see how the tires would feel at low boost (12 lbs) that were mid 11 runs. Then I turned the boost up to around 16.5. After lower the tire pressure down to 13.5, and doing a few launches at 4000 rpm on the brake, I figured out a couple of things: HOLY CRAP these ET streets hook better than BFG's and traction still was a problem. I lowered my launch rpm to 3600. After one run of getting real squirelly and letting off, and saying a little prayer I finally got my 10 second run! Not just a weak 10, but a deep 10. I never expected it, and yes, it was all worth it. This was my first time actually being able to launch in 1st gear, and you have to experience it to understand, it's nice.

Next step: fix some loose ends. Brakes are now an issue, and I need a better crankcase ventilation system (don't ask what I'm using now). I need to get some race struts, remove the sway bar, and get some lighter front rims/tires. Traction still is not 100%. For now, my goal is to keep the block in 1 piece and work on the little stuff. The coating on the turbo headers is gone for the 2nd time (thanks PTK) and they need to be recoated one day. If I ever have a Dart block sitting in my garage, I may try to push the stock block to the 9 second stock block barrier one day. Only a few have crossed that line, and not in heavy cars like mine.

I've got a baby on the way, I think I'll have to just be happy with what I have for a while. The next step in power is a Dart or Boss block, and that will cost north of $4000 for a built shortblock. You can pour every penny you make into these things, you have to draw the line somewhere. Until the bullet proof block is sitting in my garage, I'll turn the boost down a bit, and work on getting my short times down, fix the little things that add up, and do some fishing and fly some RC helicopters.

Another thing, buy a good boost controller! or start with an AEM EMS system. Playing with a manual boost controller works, but is so inaccurate.

My converter would not unlock fully one day for no apparent reason. I needed to pull it out anyway for a restall. Sent the converter back to Chris at Circle D. He restalled it and fixed a bad clutch inside the converter for no charge. It now stalls at 3800 on the transbrake, just right. Once I get some decent tires, I'll take it to the track and get some #'s

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I purchased a 4r70w from a 2003 3.8 v6 Mustang with 9K miles off of Ebay for $280 shipped to my door, what a deal! I searched high and low and found a guy on the TCCOA forums that machines the drums for the extra clutches I would need to make the tranny hold the power. I paid him somewhere around $300. The 2003 tranny did not have any teeth for the speedometer gear so I had to get another output shaft too. I obtained all the instructions I could off of the net and bought an ATSG service manual off of Ebay and dug into it. It was not that hard. I put the new guts and output shaft into it within a few hours. This was not a complete rebuild due to the tranny only having 9K miles.

I also purchased a Lentech full manual transbrake VB from a guy that goes by XSPSI, he also sold me a hammer shifter. The Lentech VB is a heavily modified Ford unit, this surprised me for the amount of money it costs, they go for $750 new. Wiring it up was fun. It swapped from the black internal wiring harness to the white harness that comes in pre 98 trannies. The older harness uses wires where as the new harness is a hard plastic thing that you can't splice into easily.

I sent the torque converter off to Circle D in Texas to a guy named Chris that can replace the PI stock clutch material with something better. I also had him restall it. I sent him my dyno sheet and $400. The clutch material is holding up well. The bad thing is that the converter is WAY too loose. When I smash the pedal, it goes to 5300 rpm and stays there. I can barely tell when it shifts. I'm sending the coverter off soon to be restalled.

I went to the dragstrip and was expecting an 11.35 or so, I knew it would be hard to launch with drag radials and I also knew the converter was going to be horrible, and the lockup would be my saving grace. My first run was an 12.19! Horrible! I was ticked. I just could not get the car to launch in 1st gear without tire smoke. I ended up finally launching it in 2nd. 2nd in an 4r70w (1.55) is fairly close to a powerglide's 1st (1.76).

That worked. I launched at 4300 rpm on the brake in 2nd with 15 lbs. boost, locked up the converter around 100 ft., shifted into 3rd pulling around 16 lbs. boost. Can't imagine what it will do with a restalled converter and some 27-28" slicks/street slicks.

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I don't know how I did it, but I messed up my 3.55 gears, they started to whine. Never wanting to replace back to what I originally I had, I went all out on the rear suspension. While I had the interior out doing the torque box reinforcements, I decided to do the roll bar too. None of this really would speed me up, other than short times a bit, and those won't improve any till I can start to spool off the line. I slowed down a tad with the extra weight. I plan on moving to a manual tranny or something with a transbrake, and wanted a chassis that could take it. I am still hitting the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd with tranny slipping.

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I got the ignition fixed and decided to let the boost rip. I purchased the ignition, drag radials and rims off of Ebay. With the tranny slipping and the engine hitting the rev limiter in top of 2nd and 3rd, it was one heck of a ride. Felt strong! Got kicked off the track pretty quickly.

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Fearing I blew a head gasket and finding a killer awesome deal on some TF heads, I bit the bullet and made the purchase. I decided to O-ring the block with the Isky tool after watching my dad blow his headgaskets 3 times. I was blowing out the spark big time! and couldn't get traction in 1st. Ended up running 11.5 lbs of boost and was having some issues with detonation. My ET suffered due to my bad short times but the real power indicator, MPH went up. Do not buy a Professional Products intake if you want quality. I had to hog out each port on one side due to alignment issues. I wouldn't do it again. Buy a good sn95 elbow adaptor, do NOT buy a Mac adapter, they are JUNK. The O-ring is working well.

Man, what a difference short times make. Nothing too special, just started power braking a bit harder here and added boost.

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Finally! some improvement. Just needed some driveline improvements to get things flowing right. I scored the PI Stallion 3 disc converter off ebay for a nice deal. Got the gears from Gene Evan Ford My dad gave me his used Nittos. I had a run between the converter and gears, and the converter gave me 1/2 second on its own. Short times is where it was at.

Uhh, what happened, slowed down in mph and ET still isn't much better! I was having tune issues, as this was the first time I had tried the Tweecer out. Couldn't shut the car down at all or it wouldn't start up again till it was cool! I think this is an example of a lopsided combo, I have all the stuff I needed as far as the engine was concerned, but am held back by gearing, tranny and tune. Keep in mind, this is with 2.70 gears and staying in 2nd gear across the line!

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I slowed down in my ET, but MPH went up. I had a horrible bog, the car would almost die in a cloud of dark smoke as soon as boost would come on at 60 ft. What I figured was the FMU was giving me problems. Pretty hot night, 80 degrees. Was the exhaust worth it? I don't think so, not at this level at least.

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I installed the turbo kit with as little other modifications to the car as neccessary. This means FMU, stock mass air flow, stock cat back exhaust, running no boost controller at 8 lbs. of boost. The installation was not too hard. It took a few days from start to finish, required some cutting here and there. See the pictures for more details. This run was with a .81 AR exhaust housing; I was having a decent amount of turbo lag not getting any boost till after 60ft. The tranny was shifting horribly also, seemed to take forever for the shift to complete. Also had some pretty bad exhaust leaks.